出发吧爱情

这届网友开始自制羽绒服了 花一周时间自制高仿“大鹅”仅需339元？_我的网站

A |     封面新闻记者 杨澜羽绒服喊出“天价”，购买一件名牌羽绒服价格动则需要好几千或者上万；商家用飞丝，甚至棉、丝、猪毛狗毛等材质替代羽绒子作为羽绒服的填充物；700多元的羽绒裤仅有3克绒……这个冬天，羽绒服频频引发消费者“吐槽”。据媒体统计，所有羽绒服品牌的新款均出现涨价。    

    Zhou Jiang speaks at an event. Photo: Courtesy of Zhou Jiang
Zhou Jiang, a researcher at the Sichuan Academy of Social Sciences, has a favorite book:  White Deer Tableland or Bai Lu Yuan by renowned writer Chen Zhongshi.
As vice president of the Regional Science Association of China (RSAC), Zhou told the Global Times that a lifetime of reading has profoundly shaped the way he sees and understands the world. It ultimately led him to a career in research and academia, where he teaches and pursues scholarly work.
Since earning his PhD in economics in 2000, he has devoted himself to the study of regional science and economics, a field that demands a constant crossing of disciplinary boundaries, drawing on the fields of geography, sociology, history, and ecology among others.
"Reading has kept alive my sense of curiosity and taught me to ask questions with patience and persistence: Where do disparities in regional development come from? How do policies affect different groups in society? And how can a region pursue both efficiency and equity so that development is not merely effective, but also imbued with a greater sense of humanity and warmth?" Zhou noted. 
Founded in 1991, RSAC is a national academic society dedicated to advancing domestic and international academic exchange and cooperation, providing consulting services on spatial planning, urbanization, and regional development, and offering intellectual support for China's modernization drive.
The 57-year-old researcher noted that reading has empowered him in two distinct ways.
"The first is discernment. When confronted with a complex issue, I try not to settle for a simple conclusion. Instead, I make an effort to understand its broader context, how it has unfolded, and the perspectives of the different people involved," he said. 
"The second is a sense of inner steadiness. Setbacks are an inevitable part of both life and work. Good books remind us that hardship is never ours alone to bear; countless people before us have faced circumstances more difficult than our own, made difficult choices, and found the strength to carry on. Reading cannot solve every problem for us, but it can help us remain calm when challenges arise, giving us the clarity and resilience that allow us not to panic or give up too easily," he said. 
Historical depth

Each time Zhou returns to the White Deer Tableland, he finds something different in its pages. 
"When I first read it as a young person, I was drawn primarily to the characters and the twists and turns of their lives. Later, as I began researching regional economics, I found myself paying closer attention to the changes in the land, the countryside, families and social order presented in the story. Now, approaching 60, I have come to appreciate more deeply the choices the characters make, the constraints they face, and the quiet perseverance they show amid the sweeping currents of their times," he said. 
White Deer Tableland uses Bai Lu village in Northwest China's Shaanxi Province as a microcosm, tracing the feuds and intertwined fortunes of three generations of the Bai (literally meaning white) and Lu families. Through their stories, it captures more than half a century of sweeping historical change, from the final years of the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911) to the 1970s and 1980s. The novel won the Mao Dun Literature Prize, one of China's top literature awards, in 1997.
Zhou prefers literary works with historical depth and a keen eye for social change. 
Regional economics may appear to be concerned with the spatial distribution of industries, population and resources, but at its heart, it is about how people live on a particular piece of land, and why some places flourish while others decline, he noted. 
In this sense, literature and history are more than pastimes beyond professional research. They often help him understand the historical context, cultural traditions and social mentality that lie behind economic data, he said. 
When reading novels, Zhou said that he often pays close attention to the relationship between people and the places they inhabit: How the land shapes the local character, how transportation transforms a region, and how shifts in industry reshape families and villages. Such details may not offer a direct conclusion, but they broaden a researcher's perspective. They also serve as a reminder that research should look beyond growth rates and statistical indicators to consider the sense of fulfillment experienced by ordinary people and the dignity of human beings.
Understanding ourselves
Once, while tidying his study, he came across a book filled with notes he had scribbled in his early years. Among them was a question that particularly caught his attention: "In the face of sweeping changes in the times and profound social transformation, what can a person truly determine for himself?"
Looking at those words he had written in his youth was like coming face to face with the person he had been decades ago.
Reading is not simply the act of understanding a book; it is also a record of a person's own growth, he said. The same book can reveal something entirely different when read at different stages of life. 
When we are young, we turn to books in search of answers; but when we become seasoned, we read more to understand life, to understand others, and ultimately, to better understand ourselves, Zhou said. 
In this era of fragmented information, AI can help people access information quickly, organize materials, and gain a basic understanding of unfamiliar fields. Yet deep reading, Zhou said, allows people to see how a conclusion is reached — what evidence supports it, where its boundaries lie, and what alternative interpretations it may invite.
What truly shapes a person, after all, is not how much information they have browsed, but the words that have made them pause and reflect - and the words that have remained with them for many years, he added. 
。羽绒产品仿佛陷入了“要么贵、要么假”的陷阱之中。如何向羽绒服“刺客”说不？封面新闻记者发现，不少消费者们想出了各种招数，部分手巧的消费者还开辟出了新赛道：自制羽绒服。在网络平台上，不少网友分享用几百元的材料费自制“加拿大鹅”（简称“大鹅”），还有消费者自制一件羽绒服总成本仅花费339元。罗女士手工制作的“大鹅”，全套材料均在网上购买。

B | 网友自制同款“大鹅”在某平台官网上售价为五位数。1花一周时间339元自制高仿“大鹅”“自己穿，绒可以往厚了充”几年前，一个名为加拿大鹅（英文名Canada Goose）的羽绒服品牌因耐寒度高、外观时尚等原因在国内火了。因高昂的售价，被人定义为“轻奢羽绒服”，不少消费者也因此对其望而却步。由于这一原因，高仿版“大鹅”找到了市场。在相关评论区下，有网友称：“高仿是无人匹敌的存在。”“反正都是仿，购买高仿、不如直接自制高仿，想充多少绒、就充多少绒！”抱着这样的想法，不少网友开始动手实践，并将制作流程事无巨细地分享出来。“楼主好厉害！接单吗？”“不接单，只是纯分享。”这是常常发生在自制羽绒服“经验贴”下的对话。在罗女士的经验贴下，网友晒出自制的“充绒机”。面料、胆布、里布、绒、门襟及口袋拉链、不同长短魔术贴、松紧、猪鼻扣、橡皮筋尾扣、气眼、鹅标等。在一篇攻略贴下，居住在安徽罗女士（化名）罗列出来了自制“大鹅”所需要的材料，这些材料分别需要在不同的店铺购买。罗女士将其一一置办下来，仅花费了339元。罗女士晒出的成本明细，总花费339元。记者注意到，其中一半的费用是在买绒上。罗女士共买了500克95白鸭绒，花费398元。此次使用260克，折合下来，该衣服羽绒购买成本为192元。某平台搜索“散装95白鸭绒”，售价在几十到两百不等。罗女士告诉封面新闻记者，自己平时需要上班，每天晚上回来做一点，这一件衣服仅花了一个星期就完成了，用的95白鸭绒，保暖效果不错，在安徽的冬天完全够穿。如何看绒多挑选好绒、如何制作“大鹅”都是自己看“经验贴”习得的，并无其他诀窍。另一名分享“经验贴”的苟女士（化名）告诉记者，自己会利用业余时间给家人、朋友做衣服，今年是首次制作“大鹅”，将其视为一种手作挑战，没算过成本，因为是自己穿，绒都是往厚了充。2做一件童装价格能便宜一半学会自制后几乎再未购买过羽绒服与上文不同的是，居住在北京的田女士分享出了更为简单的教程，并不需要“从头制作”，省去了很多麻烦事。为了响应网友们的需求，田女士一连发了3条视频来教学如何制作。

C | 在她的视频里，只需要一台缝纫机、一个羽绒服壳（半成品）、一袋绒便可完成制作。“壳的话，在网上搜索羽绒服壳、羽绒服半成品就可以买到，门襟、帽子、航线都已经做好了，我们需要做的就是直接充绒和后期缝线。

D | 每晚花上一、两个小时，大概五、六天就能完工。

E | ”在采访中，田女士告诉封面新闻记者，自己虽然发了很多制作衣服的视频，但不是职业博主，衣服都是利用下班或周末时间做的，“这是我的业余爱好，什么衣服都做过一些。2022年的冬天开始尝试做羽绒服，目前已经给孩子做了4件、给老公做了2件了。自从开始自制，家里人拥有了保暖、实惠的衣服后，就几乎没有再从外面买过羽绒服。”田女士为家人制作的亲子羽绒服。在制作过程中，田女士也踩过一些坑。“主要是绒的质量，一开始不会辨认，买成了质量很差的那种。

F | 后来慢慢看帖、学习，就会挑选了。

G | 另外配件购买也有讲究，如果都在同一家店购买的话，颜色、材质会更搭。

H | 我会在淘宝、抖音购买配件。”自制羽绒服实惠吗？田女士给记者举例道：“外面买一件600左右童装，一般充的是100克90白鸭绒，而我做的这件充的是150克5A级别的95白鸭绒，总花费才300多。绒多了、更暖和，价格也便宜一半。目前我还没有买过上千的羽绒服，因此不清楚保暖效果和更贵的衣服比起来如何。”3新闻多一点：大鹅派克大衣含绒量80%三个指标决定羽绒服保暖度在某平台的“大鹅”官网上，记者向客服询问了某款售价为14500元的派克大衣（和小红书自制款外观相似）的成份，客服称，该款大衣（适合约165身高女士穿的S码）的含绒量为80%（鸭绒），且店铺内只有鸭绒与鹅绒两种区分。

I | 客服称：“这款TEI 5 是极地级的，并且进行过实地测试，可以在-30℃以下的天气穿着。”记者问，和同等级别、更便宜的羽绒服对比，该款“大鹅”贵在哪里？客服回答了几个要素，即：蓬松度625、终身质保与产地加拿大。白鸭绒、鸭绒；95、90、80；5A；蓬松度。这几个在文章中常常出现的词语和数字是什么意思、有什么区别呢？通过查询，记者获悉，95、90、80这几个数字代表的均是“含绒量”。

J | 2022年4月，新版羽绒服装标准（gb/t14272-2021《羽绒服装》）开始实施， 其中，最大的亮点是将“含绒量”改为“绒子含量”。一般来说，绒子含量越高，保温效果越好，最高为 95%。

K | 绒子含量、蓬松度、充绒量一般是决定羽绒服保暖度的3个指标。

L | 蓬松度是指一定质量的羽绒在规定压力和容器中的体积。羽绒的蓬松度一般以12.5厘米起步，16厘米为较好，20厘米为很好，对应部分羽绒服标注的国际标准蓬松度数值分别为500、650、800。上文采访中，田女士提到的5A也和蓬松度相关。

M | 中国羽绒行业协会推广的《羽绒分级标准》中，根据蓬松度将羽绒划分为A-AAAAA五个等级，5A代表最高品质。鸭绒一般分为白绒、灰绒，白绒会比灰绒贵。价格差异可能并非由于品质和保暖功能，而是因为配色和“可能存在的气味”。此外，白绒因为颜色浅，所以能够填充的衣服颜色没有限制，而灰绒因为颜色深，填充浅色衣服有透色的风险，更多匹配深色面料。部分图片受访者提供。

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Published on:05:07:45